Fixing polymer mouldings to wood mouldings

[Not your average framer]

I'm looking at the possibility of stacking polymer mouldings with wood moulding and I'm trying to decide on the best way of fixing them together.

My first thought was to glue and pin, but what glue would be good for compatibility with both and without creating clean up problems.

As I would not be gluing any cut surfaces on the polymer moulding, (just the outside surfaces), any glues requiring a porous surface may result in limited strength or reliability of bonding between the two.

Also I'm not totally happy with pinning through polymer mouldings into wood either.

Any ideas please!

[Nigel Nobody]

I would never glue two stacked moulding together. What happens if it ever needs to be taken apart to replace one of the frames?

They could be fixed together using:

1. A screw eye into the edge of one frame and a self tapping screw through the eye into the other moulding.
2. A flat tab can be fired into the edge and a staple fired over the flat tab.
3. Canvas offsets.
4. "L" shaped brackets, screwed on.
5. "Multipoints with a screw through the hole.

Sorry, can't think of any other ways this morning!

[Not your average framer]

I would never glue two stacked moulding together. What happens if it ever needs to be taken apart to replace one of the frames?

Hi Ormond,

It's intended to look like one hand finished frame, instead of a kit of bits, which then been put together. I'm using an antique gold finished polymer moulding on the inside with a wacking great wood moulding on the outside. It just happens to be the right moulding for what's wanted and at the right price.

In this case, it's on-going, quantity order projects for a local antique dealer. So that makes two of us trying to get a good profit out of the deal. He specialises in framed prints by William Russell Flint, Louis Icart, early fashion magazine covers, etc., which he sells at shows and events, or he exports them.

He also does interior design and furnishings for the rich and famous. They need to be framed in keeping with the look and style he wants. You wouldn't believe the price this stuff sells for! Some of the earlier prints sell for well over £1,000 each!

[Nigel Nobody]

I didn't realise you were hand finishing the two frames as one! Not something that I do, because of the time and mess factors!

[Not your average framer]

Hi Ormond,

It is intended to look more hand finished than it actually is. He wants me to make these in batches, so they need a quick and easy job to do.

If I can fill and seal the joint between the two mouldings, I can hid the joint with a wash of acrylic paint followed by a coat of wax and some rottenstone. It doesn't take very long to do!

[prospero]

Good question Mark. The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is the good old Poxy Resin. Expensive though..
Also messy and labour intensive. Dunno about NoMoreNails. Maybe if you roughed the plastic surface up a bit....

Polyurethane???

I'll try a few exp's If I can find a bit of plastic moulding.

[Nigel Nobody]

It is intended to look more hand finished than it actually is. He wants me to make these in batches, so they need a quick and easy job to do.

I wouldn't be putting a "quick and easy job" and "hand application of acrylic, wax & rottenstone" together in the same job. It just doesn't compute to me!

Help me to understand what it is about the joint between the two mouldings that needs attention? Is the outside of the inner moulding bumpy or embossed???

If you want a quick and easy way to join the two frames is to use your pneumatic brad gun and fire some brads at an angle from the outer frame into the inner frame!

I'm also not sure that applying a finish to a plastic moulding would be successful. Depends on the finish I guess.

[Not your average framer]

I wouldn't be putting a "quick and easy job" and "hand application of acrylic, wax & rottenstone" together in the same job.

Hi Ormond,

I guess that you have not seen a Pete Bingham live hand finishing demo. All of his finishing techniques are very fast indeed, but the results don't appear like a quick job at all. All of his finishes use acrylic paints and wax. He sets the finishes in seconds with a heat gun.

It might not appear to make sense, but there are some very fast hand finishing techniques, which can be used if the job calls for it.

Help me to understand what it is about the joint between the two mouldings that needs attention?

I just want to lose the appearance of it being two seperate mouldings, but to do this the mouldings have to be securely bonded together. Otherwise any movement between the mouldings would crack the finish.

I'm also not sure that applying a finish to a plastic moulding would be successful. Depends on the finish I guess.

It's easy than you might think. Both wax, or shellac will stick to plastic mouldings and acrylic paints will stick to either. In the case of the wax it requires the right technique, but it does work.