finding backboard supplier

[daveym]

I've got some bespoke frames that need a slightly irregular backboard. I don't know where to purchase decent backboard for frames, and would obviously need to cut it to size.

Is there anywhere that sells sheets of this...I need reasonably sturdy board, as I'm considering cutting it myself. I've looked in the likes of B&Q but only find mountboard which when compared to hardboard seems to be quite light & flimsy.

The size i require board is slightly over 6" x 8". (exact measurment is 17cm x 22cm).

If I can't find the required sheets and cut it myself, I would need a regular supplier that can cut the board to the size specified. I'm looking for 20-25 to start then regular weekly orders of anything from 25-50, maybe more.

Thanks for any help.

[framemaker]

Hi, not sure what you mean by "slightly irregular backboard"

Most picture framing suppliers would have a number a different backing boards. There is a resource section menu on the left.

Some backing boards:
MDF comes in 2, 2.5, 3mm thick
Hardboard in 2mm (3.2mm from sheet timber suppliers)
Twin or triple walled fluted boards such as Artbak, Corri Cor etc. Come in various types.
Greyboard, pulpboard, and foamboard.

[David]

I use Wessex/Glass&Mirror Leatherhead, they supply sheet materials as listed above, they can also cut to size. There might be a minimum order for such a small size. If you get the artbak sheets 3' x 4' it can be cut with a blade quite easily.

[Jonny2morsos]

You can get 25 pieces of the size you need from a 3' x 4' sheet so I think you would need to place a pretty large order to get any supplier interested.

One of the ArtBak type products would probably be your best bet as it is easy to cut without any special equipment.

[Keith Hewitt]

I would suggest you go to your nearest trade supplier and ask them to show you all the various backing boards they stock
If you can say where you are located one of us can tell you the nearest

[daveym]

Thanks for all the help everyone.

When I say slightly irregular size, it's not an exact 6" x 4", it's about 8mm over on all sides. I'm making 3D style box frames and was stapling the board to the back of frame so need the board to be slightly bigger than the aperture on the back if that makes sense, rather than the normal fit, that would sit into the backing of frame area if that makes sense. Apologies for my very basic knowledge.

I'm stuck between MDF and hardboard. I just wondered what board is used most regularly on the back of standard frames. The current frames I buy have great sturdy board (about 3mm), but when I went down to the likes of a few DIY specilists just to look at some sheeting for various boards, the hardboard seemed to be quite flimsy, so I dont' know if there is a certain one that is used.

Can anyone recommend where to buy good sheets of hardboard. I think I will just cut it myself for the first few and see how I get on?

[prospero]

For that size I would have thought hardboard was slightly overkill. You would have to saw it and sand the edges. Also, you would need quite a powerful staple gun to penetrate it. 2mm mdf would be better. A hand stapler will do the job. You can score and snap it (assuming you haven't got a cutting machine). you would still have to sand the edges though.... (dusty ).

I think D&J Simons (Hackney) do a solid cardboard for backing. (The corrugated stuff might be a bit insubstantial). Might be worth giving them a call. Don't know if they would cut it for you. It's easy enough to cut with a knife and straightedge though.

[huntvambo]

D&J Simons do a backing board called Back 10, should be fine for something that size and you'll be able to cut it with a knife and straight edge and staple it. It's pretty cheap as well

Paul
Framed in Alvechurch

[sim.on]

MDF is the way to go if you're limited to local DIY shops. I don't know if you'd be able to get 2mm but Wickes do 3mm sheets. I've got 30 x four inch deep box frames to make next week (10" x 8") and the backs are to be glued and pinned on (I think panel pins would look better than staples).

Picture%20393.jpg (41.94 KiB) Viewed 7239 times

[daveym]

The box frame looks great. How is the hanger attached on the back...is it nailed, or screwed in? I'm quite unsure what is the best hook/hanger to use on a box frame, since I want the frame sitting itequ flush to the wall.

[daveym]

What sort of hanger/hook would work best on the box frame of approx size 8" x 6". I've got a black frame but can't find anything suitable that would match this colour and allow the frame to sit flush on a wall...I'm really unsure of what would work best and doesn't take to long to attach to backing board.

[prospero]

If you want it dead flush to the wall, with no gap whatsoever, then a keyhole hanger is probably the way. If the frame is like sim.on's example, that is "cuckoo-clocked", then you could put a 90deg keyhole hanger on the top. In a similar manner to how he has attached the front. It should not be visible when up on the wall, depending on the hight.
The only problem is that it may not hang straight. Even if you got it smack bang in the middle the box contents may be unbalanced. If you put two in, there is the additional complication of putting two screws in the wall and getting them dead level. Not easy.
To my mind, for a frame that size the alligator hangers that sim.on has used are the simplest solution. They will sit happily on a picture hook and if you flatten the hook then the gap will only be 5mm or so. Even the bars that are used for strut backs would do the trick. I've hung small pictures on these (on my own pictures when I've been too lazy to put cord on..... ). If you bend the picture hook in a bit they wedge themselves in place. Bit crude but effective.
Add bumpers to the bottom edge and the box will sit perpendicular to the wall, if not tight to it. Having a gap for air to circulate is desirable anyway.