The Framers Forum

I am sure I have seen this question before but I am b---gered if I can find it. Customer insisting on a certain moulding but it is to narrow for mount etc. he wants fitted.

It stands proud on back of frame. What do you think is the best option ?

Many thanks

Jon

You could extend the back using "Framebox" moulding like this which is available 1/2, 3/4 and 1" section.
Personllay I can't stand the stuff and will always try to use a moulding that is deep enough, but there's alway one...

I too am not a fan of frame box, mostly because it is very precarious using fittings on it. D rings in the top of framebox is difficult and typically there is insufficient room on the moulding to locate the ring.

The other option is to route out some square profile to extend the frame but then you are left with bare sides. I prefer Johnnys method

There are various methods according to how wide the back of the frame is and how much you have sticking out.

You can chamfer the backboard to gain a mm or so and fire the points at an angle.

Couple of mm and bendy tabs might do the job.

More than that and you can get plastic extrusions that screw to the back of the frame. This is tricky if the back of the frame is < 12mm or so.

You can screw a wooden batten to the back (my prefered method). Rose&Hollis do various flat sections. Again, if the frame is narrow on the back you risk seeing the edge of the plain bit. Although if it comes not quite to the edge, you can black the edge and this looks OK in most cases. R&H also do some beveled slips up to around 12mm thick and if you mitre these with the bevel out and black it, you can take them right to the edge. They do a nice one (A293), about 30mm x 8mm which is very useful for shoehorn jobs. Looks very neat.

Or you can make anther frame with the same moulding and plane off the rebate lip and fix it back-to-back on the main frame.

Here is a drawing of one method I use. (no moulding in the drawing) Using strip wood I make two sub frames, one nesting snugly inside the other but offsest by the depth I need to hold the glass in the rebate and sometimes the window mount in the case of deeper box frames. I normally use 10mm and 6mm for this, the 10mm gives some meat to get the hanging fixings into and allows a decent screwed and glued joint to be made. You should be able to use 6mm in place of the 10 mm for narrow mouldings but be careful with D-ring fitting. You can add moutboard or foam core lining or paint the strip wood.

Canvas offset come in various depths, which would allow you to increase the depth
http://admin.lionpic.co.uk/catalog/Spri ... s,246.aspx

Thanks very much for all the replys , I am sure I shall sort the little critter know.

Jon