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Have you tried completely removing the pedal stop bolt (if that's what it's called, see photo) and letting the pedal go up to max height? Could give you the 10mm you need. A bit of a fiddle to put back again but worth it if it gets the job out on time.
morso _ f.jpg
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A way of doing it without messing with the equipment is to do the first cut as far as you can. Then, where you cannot go any further that would be the face of the mitre. You should be able to bring down the blades and butt this face to the blades and continue to cut in this way all the way through the width of the moulding.
When doing the second cut you will have to take into account the extra distance you will need to allow for this method. This can be done in two ways. First, when you have gone as far as you can, measure the distance from the cut to the end of the moulding which you still have remaining; secondly, and the one I prefer, is to mark the actual distance you need the moulding length to be on the inside of the rebate. Then, align this with the bottom blade edge of the morso and do the cut. Then use this as the face of the mitre butting it up to the blades each cut.
Vince's method is one I have used before. When you have gone as far as poss, you can go sideways to nibble off the waste on the left side to balance the cut a bit. If you remove the rebate supports (you can get away with this on bigger mouldings), you can cut mouldings up to about 4.25".