The Framers Forum

Hi all,

A client has a 2012 Olympics poster to frame and wants me to suggest a creative solution. I've not framed posters before, so don't know in the first instance if there are any particular considerations, so tips on that gratefully received, and also not sure what a standard, plain vanilla treatment would be - a simple aluminium frame, perhaps? Any other suggestions? It's about A2 sized.

Thanks as always
Calico

Difficult to say without seeing the poster but aluminium always works well with posters but I would add a mount and probably make it a thick one in a nice clean white e.g. Arqadia Snow White 2000 micron. There are some nice colours in aluminium as well now available on chop service from Nielsen, Arqadia or Lion.

Perhaps a floater frame? see p73 of the Lion brochure but you will need access to dry mounting facilities.

I see lots of people viewed this topic but only one replied (thanks Jonny...) - I guess it's not the most intriguing post! ... but I really really need some more advice please!!!

The poster is 60cm x 80cm and is full bleed, not only that but the design elements are really close to the edge (poor design IMHO but that's by the by) - so I'm not sure a face mount is going to be appropriate.

So it's been suggested to me that I dry mount it, but I've no experience of this and could really use some advice. Is there some way I can get it dry mounted but leave a presentable looking border (say an inch or so) around the artwork so that I can put it directly into a frame with spacers instead of a face mount? Is there anything else I should know about dry mounting?

As for the moulding, I'd like to use a deep rebate, but relatively narrow white wooden moulding but have had trouble underpinning this sort of thing in the past - the wedges more often than not wreck the frame when I double up. So any advice on achieving secure joints gratefully received, including on whether I need more than 2mm glass for the size of frame I'm proposing.

I guess I could use an aluminium frame - would that work with the dry mounting option I mentioned?

Thanks so much for your help with this.

Calico

Hi,
Have you considered float mounting this. It would show the edges of the poster and you would leave a border as well. (If you search the forum for a link to 'float mounting' it will tell you how to do it.)
You would then need to keep the poster away from the glass by using a spacer - I use Frame Space from Lion for this - but others are available.

I would think 2mm glass is ok for this size.

To get a secure corner on a large frame I have drilled/nailed/filled the corners after glueing and pinning, quite successfully in the past. Depends on the profile and finish, if it can be touched up ok.
Otherwise you can screw corner plates to the back.

Good luck!

Because the poster is full bleed and the design doesn't allow for cropping in, I would float mount it then box frame using lion glass spacers L1342 or 1341which will hold the image 18mm from the glass. You will only need a moulding with a rebate depth of 30mm approx to accommodate this package, alleviating your under pinning woes.

Thanks! That sounds like a great option.
Calico

I spoke to a framer who said that a poster might cockle because the paper stock isn't likely to be very good in which case I should dry mount it. But is that overkill? Would float mounting be ok instead?

thanks again,
Calico

Posters thinking about it will probably cockle, however they can be problamatic to dry mount as if they have been handled then they will almost certainly be cockled to begin with whch may cause creases when you drymount using cold rollers. I find the best method is in a hot press using dry mount tissue and start pressing it before the press has warmed up. This way you won't get any bubbles forming or creases.

As one newby to another (did my first posters just a few months ago) I would recommend you stay away from float mounting - I find it very hard to get a totally smooth finish on the paper, and you can't go back. Also, it is incredibly hard to achieve a perfectly even edge. Seriously. It looks simple but just you wait...

My best looking posters have been the result of the most straightforward approach. Close mounted, 2mm glass, softwood frame. Generally when people want posters framed they want the slimmest frame possible, but it is easy to talk them up from, say a 14mm to a 20mm, on the basis of strength, and if it's a big poster the proportions work well all the same.

If you get the perfect floatmount let me know - I need the tips!

I have framed a number of large posters with the aid of my JetMounter (cold rollers). It takes creases out rather than puts them in. Not for use if you want to take the poster out again, but they do look stunning and flat though.

I think you have been luck allframed. By the nature of the paper once it is handled with hands it absorbes water and like artists watercolour paper with a heavy was wont gon flat, so once you stick it to a pressure sensitive adhesive board you will hit a cockle with nowhere for the excess paper to go and you get creases.

Even sticking posters down in a hot press with a drymount film is dodge as again the paper sticks to the film before it has a chance to flatten causing creases.

The method I describe is a tried and tested way used when I used to have to board mount hundreds of posters a week onto mdf.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Somehow the answers I get to my queries on the forum always seem to complicate the matter rather than simplify, but that seems to be framing for you!

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Calico

Use of the JetMounter for this is an interesting subject. I have used the rollers to flatten posters that would otherwise not be frameable. I don't have a vacuum press to compare results but taking it slowly and carefully so far the results are impressive. There are some limitations of course, if the paper is creased from a fold then rolling wont make it invisible but is much better than trying to frame it just on hinges.

I have had one customer come back and pay for me to take apart my original frame to mount the poster because they could see the cockling on it where they couldn't on the one I had rolled for them.

I may have been lucky, but taking the advice of Mr Hotpress, I have done OK so far. Know the limitations and slowly and carefully are the watch words.

Somehow the answers I get to my queries on the forum always seem to complicate the matter rather than simplify, but that seems to be framing for you!

That's the joy and frustration of a forum. People have different opinions and experiences. You have to pick out what works for you. Training really helps then having a go (and getting it wrong a few times) builds your own experience. Don't "have a go" on customers work though!

Have decided to dry mount the poster and forego a window mount in favour of a spacer.

A narrow mountboard spacer sounds like a good idea (one gleaned from an old forum post) - but how long do I cut it and how should it be incorporated/fixed into the package?

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks so much
Calico

Just for the avoidance of doubt, by a narrow mountboard spacer I mean one that will hide in the rebate

thanks!
Calico

The way I do it is make the frame fit the glass and then fit the spacer. You would be best making a spacer out of foamcore 5mm and mount board. Then cut the two longs and fit using PVA glue. now measure the gap between the two long sides with the fitted spacers and and cut the shorts and glue as before. The frame is ready for glass cleaning being careful not to put glass cleaner or cloth onto new spacers. finally the poster on its board can go in the back and an then you usual backing board.

God, I love this forum!

Could I be cheeky and ask for a little detail?

Foamcore plus mount spacer - glued together as one unit? mountboard on top? or not joined??

Fixed with PVA... to what? the glass or the rebate?

thanks so much for all this,
Calico

I usually take some off cuts of mount board and foamcore and glue them together then cut strips 20mm wide these are then cut to size as described above and then used to line the inside of thw frame trapping the glass in place. Once all the pieces are in place it forms a rebate to which the art work can be placed then a backing board is put in and sealed into the frame as normal.

Take care cutting the strips neatly as you craftsman ship will be visible where the artwork sits against it.

Thanks!