Getting Started (Mount Cutting)

[JohnL]

Hi Folks

I'm new to the world of framing, although I've been a carpenter for many years. My question is what is the cheapest possible way of cutting my mounts, as I only intend to do it as a hobby for friends and family. Can I get away with using something like a "Logan 4000" against a straight edge or will this prove too difficult with getting the corners right.

John

[markw]

Hi JohnL
You tend to get what you pay for - the smaller hobby cutters are very basic.

You are asking people who try and make a living out of framing pictures for you, your family and friends - my advice is always have artwork framed by a professional picture framer. if you seriously want to take up picture framing get some proper training before you practice on other peoples artwork.

[Merlin]

Hi JohnL
Welcome to the Forum.

I agree with Mark and I am one of those people who run a picture framing shop.

However, I also teach picture mounting at the local College to the City & Guilds level Photography students where they use the Logan 4000 cutter.

As Mark says a very basic cutter, yet it does work and as long as a lot of care is taken with measurements, positioning and cutting procedures then good results can be achieved.

You are a carpenter, so you understand the need for accuracy in measuring. Measure twice and cut once!

With the 4000 the cut is on the pull stroke. Make sure that the straight edge is at 90 degs to the body. That way no twist of the wrist or elbow will ruin the cut. You do not plain a piece of wood using 'cross body' movements.

Always mark out on the reverse of the mount the cutting lines in pencil using a set square. Always make sure that the body of the 4000 travels over the 'fall out', that way you will get the correct bevel.

Again accuracy is paramount. Over cuts are extremely unsightly and extremely unprofessional.

It takes a lot of practice but it can be done at hobbyist level.

Good Luck

[JohnL]

Thanks for your help John GCF.

[WelshFramer]

Can I get away with using something like a "Logan 4000" against a straight edge or will this prove too difficult with getting the corners right.

I started with a Logan 2000 and after a little practice was able to produce perfect mounts. To start with I had a few problems with overcuts when the cutter slipped but practice helped. The knack, for me, was to use the wrist rather than the arm to push it and don't try working too quickly.

I then progressed to using a FrameCo MatMaster http://www.frameco-online.com/shopuk/category18_1.htm with the Logan and that helped to speed things up.

I've still got the Matmaster and the Logan in the workshop. I don't use them very often but they're still useful on occasions.

You don't need expensive hi-tech equipment to cut good mounts -- just look at some Victorian frames and see what they achieved.

It's the same with mitres. A good hand saw can produce perfect mitres. I still sometimes use my Nobex (http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=12) -- considered by many to be the best low cost mitre saw available. It's very accurate and easy to use but you do need to add a measuring system such as the Ezy measure (http://www.lionpic.co.uk/index.php?sess ... ctid=4796B

I would, however, stress the value of going on a course. There's a lot to learn (how to handle and treat art, materials selection, conservation issues, etc, etc) apart from the basic skills. I first went on a basic picture framing course at West Dean, http://www.westdean.org.uk/site/arts/wo ... LW_073.htm, because I wanted to frame my own photography as a hobby. As it happened, the course so inspired me that I'm now a full-time framer. (The West Dean courses, by the way, are great value -- accommodation in a stately home, very good food, and tuition from 9am till 9pm (or until such time as everyone decides to retire to the bar).)

[Not your average framer]

Hi John,

Don't rule out buying a secondhand mountcutter. During my framing career all my mount cutters have been secondhand and they've all been good too!

I started out with a C & H Bainbridge 4060A which only cost me £75, but since it had no start or end of cut stops, I then got a Keencut Dart for £100, which was then followed by a Keencut Ultimat for £400 which is my workshop mountcutter. I also now have a much older C & H Bainbridge for £150, so I can do bits and bobs at home should the need arise.

It's often worth checking to see if a local supplier may have any secondhand equipment for sale, but don't buy without trying it first.
Mark

[kev@frames]

re second hand: keencut will factory refurbish any of their mount cutters for around £80 (check the price out first in case its gone up) so dont overlook the possibilities of a ropey secondhand one after its been brought up to "as new" spec by the factory.


people have been cutting high quality mounts by hand with nothing more than an olfa cutter and a straight edge. And many still do. Go for it, and enjoy it.

On the other hand, it probably wont be any cheaper than getting odd ones cut at your local framers or even online when you take into account the retail price of board, waste, etc. But if you are regularly doing just a few, its worthwhile doing them for yourself, specially for the principle of "all my own work" -which is why we are in the sort of jobs that we are in, after all. We certainly are not in it for the money

As John at Merlin says, if you are a carpenter you already have more than the necessary skills, its just different materials and tools you'll be working with!

I also agree with the suggestion of going on a course. Great, highly recommended. Or at least a book on mount cutting (ebay, FATG etc)

good luck. let us know how you are getting on!