The Framers Forum

I've been asked by a customer to put a silver edge on the inside edge of the mountboard.
I have a small plastic slip that is silver and looks to be just the job, but how is it done?
I imagine the mount will need to be cut with a square edge, rather than a bevelled one?
I have a keencut ultimat gold if that makes a difference.
Thanks

What you need is a fillet. You could use a slip, but it's a little harder to get the edges to run perfectly parallel. With a slip there isn't a raised edge to locate on inside of the window so keeping a bevelled edge would be desirable.

Some call them fillets and some call them slips, and some, to avoid confusion call them mount slips.
http://www.arqadia.co.uk/productdetails ... 907&id=210

But whatever you call them they should look something like this.
You don't have to cut the bevel square, in fact I'd advise against that, it's tricky and there's a chance of seeing the board's core if the slip/fillet/ whatever is not perfectly butted up to it over its entire length.

I reverse the bevel IMHO the slip replaces the normal mount bevel but some like a normal bevel - see what the customer likes.

like Mr Roboframer I like to do a reverse bevel, really easy to do with the cmc, when I had the ultimat gold I just did a normal bevel just because it was quicker.

Yup, that's the fella right there.
If it's a normal bevel, surely there would be a line of white core between the coloured (orange in this case) mountboard and the mountslip.
Is it possible to do a reverse bevel on the ultimat gold?

yes, keencut sell a reverse bevel stop as a add on for the ultimat gold.. not too expensive if I remember.

You can get a special stop for doing reverse bevels on the Ultimat, designed for mount slips. There are a couple of videos on YT...

Set the side scale as normal ie 7.0cm then just add 4mm bottom stop 7.4cm and 6mm top stop 7.6cm, then you'll have a reverse bevel, no overcuts, you might have to tweak the sizes slightly and you'll need to do the last 2 mm or so with a blade by hand to pop the centre out.
Do a few practice boards and you'll see how easy it is

I don't really like the fillet pushing against the glass. At least I don't like the idea of it. So I usually do a normal bevel and stick another layer of scrap mb to the back. That way the fillet is sunk in slightly. And I think the bevel adds and extra sculptural dimension. If it were a dark mount, or a fabric covered one, I would go for the rev bev. With fabric I would wrap the bevel.

Here's an example of a mount slip with a reverse bevelled mount, it's how I do them all the time (now, with a CMC and previous with an Ultimat) I think the addition of a white bevel would detract. OK, it's a dark mount and the white bevel would be more obvious than on a neutral colour where, bar for shadow, it may not be easily seen at all - IOW have no effect ... so why do it? Just reverse the bevel - the slip becomes the bevel. Give the eye less to do on the framing and more to do on the art.
Regards mount slips pushing against the glass, most of these things are made with a rebate the same depth of the thickness of a normal sheet of mount board - possibly plus a fraction - they are, after all, designed to edge mount apertures. But some are deeper, admittedly, but then, unless waaaay deeper, it's not usually a problem, there's no pressure away from the frame perimeter. If waaaaaay deeper, then of course you can make flush or even add a thin rebate spacer.

Nice job John. That's how I would do it with that design.

But a visible bevel can work is some cases.




(carp photo. The mount is pale grey not creamy)

Thanks for your help folks.
Here's the finished article. I was reasonably chuffed, as was the customer.
Slight issue is that the decorative bit of the mount slip seems to be bending slightly as it is cutting, so the corners weren't totally flush. Any suggestions, possibly even just using a stanley blade?

Looks fine to me.