Underpinning sloping mouldings

[ChrisG]

When underpining a 2 inch sloping moulding using a Cassesse I'm finding the plunger is not making sufficient contact with the slope causing a slight gap on the moulding face although the underside is fine.

Any ideas?

ChrisG

[Graysalchemy]

Have you got the moulding code or a picture so I can see the profile.

Cheers

AG

[silvercleave]

Same problem with a popular moulding I use, answer is to cut a mini chevron of the same moulding but in reverse so that you can place it on top of the moulding to make it into a flat surface, when put under the arm of the underpinner the pad then has something flat to press onto......................

blimey that sounds a crap explanation, someone may be along in a minute with a drawing............



Ian

[ChrisG]

AG

The moulding in question is Wessex E4403.

ChrisG

[Graysalchemy]

If you can adjust the height of the plunger then do so that it just clears the top of the moulding. You need the moulding to be clamped from the top before the hammer pushes the pin in , if not the moulding moves and splays. Also have you got the moulding up against the fence, without a spacer? It does need to be against the fence. Pin from the back about 12mm in and use two 12mm wedges then work forward . This will hopefully stop the moulding from splaying out. Also are you using a bung or a triangle. A bung would be best.

Let me know how you get on.

[prospero]

That's a tricky moulding and you can't use the backwards-way-on chevron method. As it's quite deep, I would tend towards stacking 3 10mm wedges about 10mm from the back and leave it at that.

[silvercleave]

You're right Prosperro, having seen the moulding it also slopes

[Graysalchemy]

I use that quite a lot no problem at all as long as you can adjust the height of the plunger so it is close to the moulding (as you should with all mouldings)

[Jonny2morsos]

I would use the round plunger which conforms to shapes better than the triangular one and start at the back and work inwards. Probably close as I dare to the back and second wedge about half way in.

Practising on some spare bits always helps and also keeping a note of positions/size of wedge on your display chevron.

Incidently, take a look at Simons NORD/0004 or Arqadia 304 738 127 both between £5 & £6 per metre compared to Wessex price of £8.66. If you are concerned about quality differences then ask them to send samples (which you can practice joining).

[Graysalchemy]

Just checked my database on my underpinner and this is what profile I have set for simons Nord/4 which is very similar 40mm profile.

From the outside edge using 15mm wedges.

15mm - 2 , 22mm - 2 , 30mm - 1.

Don't go to close to the back as wedges when stacked tend to curve backwards, which in actual fact gives it some of its strength and pulls the moulding together. Also putting to close to the back will actually actually act like a wedge and push the moulding apart. This is also the reason why you don't put wedges to close to the back of plastic as the same happens but also results in the moulding cracking.

AG

[markw]

I keep an assortment of objects that I use to pack out awkward profiles - rubbers - bits of wood etc. I rarely need to use them - but every now and then you get a profile that just needs a bit of extra support. The old trick of using the same profile reversed sometimes helps - at other times you might need to find a profile that just sits in the part of the frame that needs a bit of pressure.

[Not your average framer]

I see that no one has mentioned using a band clamp. Particularly with some of the more basic underpinners, a band clamp around the portion of the frame which stands above the fences, can help quite a lot with mouldings which may be difficult to join.

Another point, with some of the finishes on today's designer mouldings, you may need to be carefully using the reversed moulding technique for clamping as it can leave shinny marks where the two mouldings make contact.

My local hardware shop sell "decorator's sponges". They are much firmer that normal bath sponges when dry and can easily be accurately cut with a sharp knife or blade. Thin sections of this sort of sponge can be quite helpful between surfaces to avoid pressure marks.