Help needed framing a poster please

[Framegirl]

Hello there

I have a 80x60cm poster to frame. The client wants it framed without a mount, so I have 2 questions?

1. How should I attach the poster to back board? Should I attach it to self adhesive board (the poster is not valuable, but it is still a bit curly even though I have been flattening it), or should I try to attach it to mount board with hinges?

2. As I am not using a mount, I am concerned that the poster will be in contact with the glass. Is this a problem and, if so, how should I deal with it?

Many thanks for any advice you can provide on this.

Frame Girl.

[Gus]

Hi,
I am by no means an expert, but for what it's worth....

If the client was agreeable, I would dry mount the poster so it is stable and flat, then use 'econospace' or something similar to create a space away from the glass. - very this strips of mountboard that are hidden under the rebate and stuck to the glass would do the same job.

[easypopsgcf]

Stick it down, glass straight onto it, job done

[Timh]

we only put glass directly on something that is - a) easily replaceable and b) cheap as chips

moisture from glass is a pain
something to think about is what your customer may think if the print sticks to the glass and how that may reflect on your services and skill

using a separator isn't a bad idea
if using mountboard, stick some together or use 12 sheet thick board to increase the space
good luck

[pramsay13]

I would check it was not valuable / easily replaceable and then ask if I can dry mount it.
I would give them the pros and cons of framing with a mount or spacer versus paper directly in contact with glass. Most often than not price is the main consideration so paper goes directly under the glass. Aesthetically I think that looks better anyway, as most posters are designed with space around them. If they don't want to see the mount but want something to keep the glass off the poster I have used small strips of mountboard or wooden slips but you have to factor in the extra cost.

[Not your average framer]

Quite often customers succeed to causing creases in posters before getting around to wanting them framed and this makes dry mounting an obvious course of action to suggest. Therefore if the poster is going against the glass, it is often easy to suggest heatsealing as a protective measure.

Low value posters brought back from overseas holidays are often damaged and can need touching up to remove the white lines where a crease has broken the printed surface of the paper and a dead matt heatseal film does a great job of hiding the touching in, by making the whole surface uniformly matt.

I would not recommend touching in customers artwork unless you are experienced and can do a perfect job everytime. Don't practice on customers work...It's not worth it!

I don't like the idea of using self adhesive boards on larger artworks such as posters. It's only my opinion, but I've seen larger items which have been mounted onto self adhesive board which have developed problems over time and therefore prefer not to do this!

[prospero]

I would agree with Mark (NYAF). Self-adhesive board isn't much more reliable than spray glue. You just can't get enough pressure on to form a good bond. A quick going-over with a roller is not going to work long-term.
The only reliable way IMHO is to dry-mount it in a heat press.
If mounting isn't an option and the poster is generally creased/wavy, then it's never going to be flat in the frame and you should advise the customer. You can float hinge it and frame it so the edges go under spacers, but you must engineer it so the edges are not crimped tight and there is at least 3mm space around.

[stcstc]

cold mounting CAN be reliable

but not by using cheap ass stickyboards that some suppliers sell

i make my own using hotpress products and have never had an issue

both heat press and cold press have their advantages

but one is not just better than the other etc

[Glimpse]

STCSTC, can you give a bit more info about your dry-mounting techniques, choice of board etc?

I don't have a heat press yet, but often need to frame larger posters/prints. I've not done anything big on stickyboards yet but have an A1 poster to do, so any tips on how to get good results without a big roller or laminator would be great!

Apologies if this is a thread hi-jack!

[prospero]

Not everybody has the hi-tech kit like you Steve.

[stcstc]

you need a laminator

I have a Hotpress jm54 jetmounter. not the best on the market, but cheapish for the size

i tend to use elmers foamcore, and then use Hotpress self wound mount film for general stuff

but they now sell 2 versions, normal and ultra, the ultra is stickier and design for doing things like blockmounts etc

i tend to use it only

BUT, for very very glossy prints where you need a real smooth finish. general mount film the adhesive is not smooth enough and you need to use transperancy mount film (which is designed for facemounting on acrylic) as its ultra smooth

if you try and do by hand chances are it will not work successfully, as the adhesives are pressure sensitive and require good even pressure to activate correctly

its almost impossible to apply that pressure with a hand roller evenly etc, also with some of the cheaper laminators on the market even!!!

[Glimpse]

Thanks for the pointers... A laminator certainly on the shopping list but it's probably some way down the line at this point.

Would anyone have any tips on getting the best possible results using self-adhesive board with a hand roller? Or a mangle!!

[stcstc]

just sub the mounting out to someone local who has a laminator and actually knows what to do with it

it is safer than attempting yourself and it going tits up

[prospero]

Would anyone have any tips on getting the best possible results using self-adhesive board with a hand roller? Or a mangle!!

Don't mount anything over 10x8".

You can use PVA. Roll it on the board and get the poster on pronto. But the same thing applies: Pressure. Best way I found is to get two big boards. 3/4" chipboard of MDF. And get a foam blanket to lay on top. Then you pile as much weight on top as you can - books are good. Or an anvil . I've got 10 ex-GWR cast iron fence posts which weigh in at about 250kg. Leave overnight.
Of course it's all a bit of a kerrfuffle. And not good for production work. Strictly a push-comes-to-shove solution.

[Glimpse]

Thanks Prospero, I might have to experiment with that technique... Do you use builder's PVA? Does it need letting down at all? Is there much risk of soak-through?
Sorry for all the questions!

What about sticky-board and the weights trick? What are the pitfalls?

Thanks!

[Abacus]

We've used self adhesive boards (not the repositional ones, the permanent ones) for years for cheap posters and have never had one back. We use a j roller.

[Glimpse]

What brand of board do you use Abacus?

[Abacus]

They are not branded, I just ask radius for "yellow sticky stuff"! (The release paper is yellow)

[An Old Master]

Framegirl, you could try this. Prepare a mounting board by giving the mounting surface a couple of coats of PVA Builder's adhesive, diluted with about 20% water, with a roller, letting the first coat dry before adding the second. When the second coat is dry, secure the poster along one narrow edge of the board, holding it in place with low-tack masking tape ( Euro tape is fine ) so that when rolled out, the poster will lie flat and correctly positioned with the edges of the board. Roll the poster backso that it lies along the narrowest side. Use a domestic iron set at medium heat with brown paper sheet shiny side down to act as a cover sheet. Apply the same mix of PVABA with a roller to form a section about 300mm wide or, for simplicity, the width of roller. Carefully roll out the poster using the iron on top of the brown paper and reasonable pressure, allowing time for the heat to bond the adhesive. Repeat the process until complete.

[kev@frames]

plastic glazing is less prone to condensation risks