The Framers Forum

Sorry about the quality of the pictures

Nice one Mike, like how you done this one, thanks for all the photos, no need to explain how you did it.

Looks great and I absolutely leeerve that moulding range (from Ashworh and Thompson or Nielsen)

Phil at Ashworth & Thompson looked after me on the moulding, but my word the price!!! On saying that the moulding is beautifully engineered and an amazing finish. I have used this on 3 jobs up to now.

Vey nice Job!

Not long after I started my business, I first saw this technique on a frame which was brought to me for replacement of it's broken glass. Since then, I have used this construction method more times than I can even begin to guess at.

Customers are always impressed when they see me building something using this technique. Having a well stocked hardware shop opposite my own shop, I can easily nip across the road and to use their varied stock of useful timber sizes, so this technique is an ideal and obvious method for me to use.

Since getting myself equiped with various pneumatic staplers, brad nailers and a headless pinner, jobs like this have also become a lot easier to do!

Very nice what thickness mdf backing did you use and what was the overall picture size and what hangers did you use.
Thanks
Dave

theframer wrote:Very nice what thickness mdf backing did you use and what was the overall picture size and what hangers did you use.
Thanks
Dave

Hi Dave

The size was determined by a cock up on a previous job. I had 3mm perspex cut incorrectly so it was put on one side ready for when the next job came in and here it is. The size is 988mm x 788mm - don't ask a weird size I know.
MDF was 2 or 3mm can't remember exactly, but the glued and pinned frame gives the job serious rigidity and then when you overlay the frame all is heavenly Deepjoy.

I used 2 'J' style hangers from Lion with 2 screws and rawl plugs per hanger. John Roboframer has posted a plan of weight based on the spacing of the wall hangers. The hanging string was looped 4 times to give it the over egged and safety factor.

The lining of blue mount board was attached to 5mm foam board by a laborious technique of tape, then glue, then tape, then glue, etc... The idea being if one fails the other will be there to stop it all coming apart.

Thank you all for your kind comments

Thanks for the info it looked a lot bigger in the pictures nice job
Dave

Looks great dude. Is the weight guide by Robo still a thread on here?

It's not my guide, I think I've only ever posted one of the diagrams from this document http://www.fineart.co.uk/article/artfac ... d-552.aspx

And for a colour version....... http://theframersforum.com/pmwiki/pmwik ... kplacement

It looks amazing, Well done

Just one question, I can't quite tell from the pics, how deep is the moulding and how deep is the pine structure? Is the pine visible if you get round the side?

Hi
Thanks for all the kind words

I think the subframe is 12mm thick by 44mm and the mouldings rebate is around 30mm, I hope this helps

Thanks for the link, it's the one I remember that first got me to use two spaced wall screws to hang heavy pieces.