Mitre Saw Jig

[vitalframer]

I am new to the Forum and already a convert having browsed through the interesting topics.

I am a new framer and have a lot to learn so I am starting off slowly (already identified about 15 reframing/remounting jobs around the house). I can't afford a Morso (yet!) or similar but I am keen to cut as tight a mitre as possible so am intending to use my exisiting DeWalt chop saw for my initial cut and then I have a guillotine to finish the job before gluing and pinning.

I am keen to have some sort of measuring jig on my chop saw that will allow me to have an accurate (slightly over-sized) cut and have a production stop for multiple cuts. I jave built jigs before but any help with this one would be really appreciated. I am not sure where to get the measuring tape (self-adhesive?) and this will need to have 45 degree markings on it (draw these myself?), how can I attached a sliding production stop and finally how to I attach the final jig to the chop saw existing fence (magnets?)

Any help would be really appreciated.

[prospero]

Hi and Welcome Vitalframer.

I have used a 'DIY' chop saw to cut frames and on large mouldings or certain profiles a saw it better than a chopper. But this type of saw generally is not accurate enough for picture frames. Yours may be better than the on I have (I was given it ), but I find that swinging the head around disturbs the angle and tightening the locking screw will throw it off. One day I intend to get two saws and set them up in a dedicated installation so I can fine-tune the angles, one for each end.

Making a measuring scale shouldn't be too difficult. You could even canibalise an extendable steel ruler and fix it to a piece of timber. Making a sliding stop with a clamp should be simple enough, given a bit of ingenuity. Morso choppers have a scale on the sliding stop that adds double the width of the back of the moulding. But rather than try and concoct a similar setup for your saw, it would be easier to simply measure the moulding back and double it and add to the rebate length you need. So you set the production stop to the outside measurement of the frame.

[framemaker]

Hi Vitalframer, welcome to the forum

There is a measuring system available from Frameco, called the Ezy-Measure. It is intended for hand mitre saws but can be adapted for use with electric and power saws. This pdf is worthing reading for some tips on setting up:

http://www.clubframeco.com/PDF/Instruct ... Saw_IS.pdf

I remember a topic a while ago about some printed scales that were available on ebay, will see if I can find the topic later, when I get a minute...
but here is the listing:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Morso-Angled-Scal ... 3cb0d45e1f

Kreg also do a measuring system for mitre saws:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/kreg-kreg-pr ... rod656054/

[vitalframer]

Thanks you very much for your quick replies and information. I have a lot more idea about how to go about this jig. Just need to decide how long to make it - sod's law I will make it and then need to do a job which is 10cm longer!! Such is life.

Thanks again.

[sim.on]

I used a Dewalt chop saw with the Frameco EZY system for ages and it was a good reliable set up. Still got it. You get a self adhesive scale with the EZY system and also another little bit of scale that is used for eight sided etc frames. Must use the mitre trimmer as well though and you may also need to use masking tape on some wood mouldings to stop splintering. Works great with Minerva plastic (with the original 24 teeth blade which is still on it).

Picture%20238.jpg (51.72 KiB) Viewed 4935 times

[sim.on]

Meant to add, after cutting the second mitre on a length of moulding wait until the blade stops spinning before raising it or else the moulding which is 'trapped' between the measuring stop and side of the spinning blade can take off like a missile!

[WelshFramer]

I started with an EZY system attached to a Nobex saw (http://www.axminster.co.uk/nobex-nobex- ... prod23027/ fitted with the 24 Tpi blade). It produced very good results and I can get mitres just as good as I can using the Morso. I still have it and use it for mouldings that are difficult (or too large) for the Morso.

[vitalframer]

Thanks again guys for your valuable help and advice.

[Nigel Nobody]

Meant to add, after cutting the second mitre on a length of moulding wait until the blade stops spinning before raising it or else the moulding which is 'trapped' between the measuring stop and side of the spinning blade can take off like a missile!

Can't you raise the other end and slide the piece away from the blade?